shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Mar 15, 2014 19:54:49 GMT
The roof area is also structural and within 30 cm's of the very top seat belt mounts. 'Excessive corrosion within 30cm of a setatbelt anchorage point' But if yours are solid, you have no worries.
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Post by macplaxton on Mar 15, 2014 23:26:48 GMT
Those 60cm diameter imaginary spheres strike again!
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shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Mar 16, 2014 22:55:50 GMT
Those 60cm diameter imaginary spheres strike again! If only MOTing was as simple as a bare shell and a 60cm white sphere
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 29, 2014 18:04:50 GMT
Well having run this for a while now I think I really have fallen on my feet.
Car is still running really nicely, given it a quick service with genuine landy filters and it nows pulls like a train. It really is quite spritely and frugal too. Over the last 600 miles or so she has returned 38mpg and considering a good 100 of those was towing I really am quite impressed for a crude 2.5l pushrod 4cyl diesel driving a 2ton brick with permanent 4WD I hadn't expected more than 25mpg so 38mpg has come as a rather pleasant surprise.
Only one thing has been marring the drive and that was a pudding bowl gear lever. If you wanted 3 or 4th it was more luck than judgement trying to find it. I speak in the past tense as its now repaired and an easy fix it was too. I knew it was going to be a selector lever problem rather than gearbox internals because I could still find all the gears and once found they engaged normally. It was a pain as you had to work out where the gear gates are as the lever didn't self center.
If anyone has a similar problem with a car of theirs then this guide might be helpful.
Step 1 (Remove Center Console) 1. Suitably chock the vehicle as you will need the handbrake off and disconect the battery as you will be disconnecting electrics. 2. Pry up the gear lever gators for both main box and transfer lever and unscrew the gear knobs. 3. Under the transfer lever gator are two cross head screws you might as well undo them now so you don't forget them later. 4. Pry off the plastic panel around the window switches and undo the screws around the edge of the panel you have just revealed. 5. Lift out the window switch panel and unplug the switches. 6. You should now have room to take out the clevis pin in the handbrake lever. Don't lose the retainer clip. 7. Open the center console stowage bin and remove the two screws inside. 8. Pull up the handbrake lever this will bring the console back abit and enable you to just lift it up and out of the way.
Step 2 (Gain access to the top of the gearbox) 1. With the center console now out of the way remove the insulation that was under it. 2. I removed the air ducts to the rear you probably don't need to but its one screw per side and they just lift out giving you space. 3. Now your going to be presented with a rubber sheet held down by a riveted ring of metal. This is between you and the box, don't just cut it you won't get enough access to do the job. 4. Drill out the rivets all the way around and lift out the retainer and rubber sheet. Now you can see the gearbox. 5. Around the bottom of the gear lever is a little metal cage that protects the bias plate and springs. This needs removing, it is held in place by two large cross headed screws undo these and lift the cage out of the way. On mine this was easier said than done and I had to resort to bending the edge of the transmission tunnel with a pair of pliers to get it out. hopefully you may have more luck there.
Step 3 (Fixing the fault) You will now be able to see whats wrong hopefully if you can't bad luck the faults with the selectors inside the box have fun What your looking for is a broken spring or broken/heavily worn plate. Directly to the rear of the lever the plate has a small up turned tag on it this stops the springs pushing the lever too far and on mine it was broken off. If yours is the same follow my instructions to the end if its just a broken spring you may only need to undo one bolt and replace the offending article. 1. Slacken the 4 10mm headed setscrews that retain the plate, but don't fully remove them yet unless you like playing wheres that frigging bolt gone. Be worned they are tight and thread locked! 2.Select 1st gear, this takes as much pressure as possible of the right hand (viewing from the rear) spring. Now remove the bolt that holds the right hand spring in place, be careful the spring will still be under some tension. 3. Lift off right hand spring. 4. Select 5th gear to take as much tension out of the left hand spring as possible and undo the retaining bolt. 5. Remove left hand spring. 6. Undo remaining two retaining bolts and remove the broken plate. 7. Fit your new plate tang to the rear and upturned. 8. Loosely fit the front two bolts but don't do them up tight yet. 9. I decided to use new springs as I already had them but to be honest I didn't need to. It doesn't matter which you do first but im going to assume you do the left hand one first. Place the spring over the pivot post with the long arm at the top. 10. Fit the bias plate retaining bolt through the hooked end of the spring and loosely do it up only a few turns. 11. Select 5th gear as this will make it easier for you to put the long arm of the spring into place, by doing that its not too hard to get the spring located. 12. Now select 1st gear and do the same for the right hand spring. 13. Using the gear lever select 3rd or 4th and whilst in gear hold the lever to the right with it held so do up all the bolts home. 14. Now try your gears they should select nicely and the lever should snap back to center when released in neutral. If the lever is slightly to one side slack all 4 bolts centralize the lever and do them up again.
Step 4 (put it all back together again) As the haynes book of lies would say refitting is the reverse sequence of removal, and in this case it is, only you might as well replace the rivets with self tappers this will make your life much easier if you need to do the job again.
Enjoy gears that select nicely again and the satisfaction that you didn't have to pay someone else to fix it.
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Post by 33grinder on Mar 30, 2014 6:59:41 GMT
Nice 'to do' guide Paul, glad you fixed it and this one appears to be a keeper.
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 1, 2014 19:44:39 GMT
and it was all going so well.
Was towing the trailer today and she started running a hot up the hills with an unladen trailer and started to feel a little down on power.
Pulled over and let her cool down and checked the coolant level she had eaten a litre of coolant so topped her up and carried on. All fine for another 10 miles or so and then she starts getting hot under load again, yep she's eaten another litre of coolant. Limped her home with regular coolant top ups and set about investigating the problem.
No signs of external leaks. P gasket area bone dry, rad and hoses all dry and heater matrix not leaking either now thinking oh cock! Topped up the coolant again and started her up from cold, expansion tank pressurises within 10s, and with cap off and hand over expansion tank filler I can feel a rhythmic pulsing in time with the engine, cock cock cock!!
Looks like im on my 2nd HG change this week that I don't get paid for and I needed her to tow the tractor home tomorrow! On the plus side though its a push rod engine, acess is good and the gasket is £12 + VAT so as long as the head hasn't cracked or severly warped all should be well by Monday. Im hopeful no warping or crackage will have occurred as she is still running reasonably well all be it now with an unsteady idle and I never let the temp go above 3/4 on the gauge certainly no steam or boiling over
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Post by 33grinder on May 1, 2014 21:28:33 GMT
That's a bummer. Hopefully you have caught it in good time before any damage is done.
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Post by ozzie on May 2, 2014 19:42:22 GMT
I might suggest ..."......................
BUY AN OLD VW BEATLE THEY DONT HAVE HEAD GASKETS
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 3, 2014 11:10:20 GMT
Head now off and number 3 bore looks suspiciously clean. Can't see any obvious blow in the head gasket so next to check for crackage or warpage in the cylinder head.
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Post by Sigmund Fraud on May 3, 2014 12:22:43 GMT
Crikey, you work fast Paul ! I'm still in the pre-contemplation stage...
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