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Post by Nick on Aug 3, 2014 14:27:11 GMT
ok got a 66 prop here in front of me and the 46 propshaft, definitly NOT identical in length, the 46 shaft is however identical to the dead one I took out of Tilly the 32 it is 1260mm long, the 66 one I have here is 1160mm long so a good 4 inches shorter (for those who work in old money) plan is to use one of the steel rivetted ends off the 66 propshaft to get me out the poo until the weekender when they can put me a proper 46 prop on whilst im busy welding cars up second generation 66 propshaft the rivetted end I hope to use on mine 46 prop on left, 66 on right and now with Tillys (32) propshaft thrown in for good measure... yes its identical bar about 2mm to a 32-33 propshaft.. handy to know that eh...
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 3, 2014 15:26:40 GMT
Small point:
That isn't a 66 propshaft btw. That's a butchered 66 prop. It's made up of 5 pieces FFS. They are either 3 piece or 1 piece.
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 3, 2014 16:43:51 GMT
yes its identical bar about 2mm to a 32-33 propshaft.. handy to know that eh... Eh, no it isn't identical and not that handy to know. Here's why Mister Prop-buster : E-03-019 by macplaxton, on Flickr
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Post by Nick on Aug 3, 2014 17:11:39 GMT
oh well you live and learn, thats 44 props though my 46 prop doesnt have the steel ends it has the same all aluminium look of the 33 one anyways.. back to the problem in hand, 46 props are of course in stock at everyones favourite parts supplier but until the time I am there and the fact I need to get there a remedy had to be found, now obviously that 66 prop with its stainless steel middle section is not going to end up back on a car and amazingly on closer inspection my 46 prop has at some point tried to spin the rear as there was evidence of metled rubber around that too but only in a tiny amount, first job measure the shaft 1260mm then using a good cutting device cut ends squarely off the 46 shaft to leave me with the centre piece of the "new" propshaft (before anyone says there was a spacer behind and under to keep the flare from making it cut crooked... A 6.5mm drill bit is the perfect size for the steel bodybuilding rivets I was going to use to refit the ends to my prop (bigger than the 66 ones)so 6.5mm drill is used to remove the 4 rivets from the cup I then chopped the ends off the 66 shaft leaving the aluminium as close to flush as I could get and using a 1.5mm drill bit I split the tube of aluminium inside the cup and simply flicked it out with a screwdriver yes it took a steady hand I then marked the depth of the tubes onto the end of my tube and proceeded to drift the ends back onto it up to the marks, a quick meaure showed me to be at 1270mm so another mark was made 5mm down on each end (I did say I was doing both didn't I??) and they were drifted further on, at this point my camera batteries had died so the next pic is finished prop back at home ready to fit, and showing the new heavy duty rivets.. finally the finished propshaft next to Tilly's old one it looks shorter because it is at an angle but the length is spot on.. will now go and fit it and hope for the best..
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 3, 2014 17:24:59 GMT
ok got a 66 prop here in front of me and the 46 propshaft, definitly NOT identical in length...[snip]...it is 1260mm long, the 66 one I have here is 1160mm long so a good 4 inches shorter (for those who work in old money) Okay, I've been digging around and 1160 is the correct length of a 66 propshaft (from the Volvo manual). Someone has still butchered that one though ... Primary Unit propellor shaft (V66)Type | Aluminium tube with flared ends and rubber couplings pressed into ends (pre-'73-ish would have 2 riveted on steel ends) | Length, mm | 1160 | Tube cross section, mm | Ø 60 x 2 | Critical speed for lateral distortion | approx. 120 r/s (7200 rpm) | Critical torsional speed | 46.6-58.3 r/s (2800-3500 rpm) |
Rubber couplingsOutside diameter, mm | 80 | Torsional stiffness | 180-235Nm, radial (130.19-169.98 ft. lbs) | Radial stiffness | 830-910N/mm (183.02-200.66 lbs/mm) |
Props to you for the bodge like. Just keep your fingers-crossed it doesn't rattle your fillings out! oh well you live and learn, thats 44 props though my 46 prop doesnt have the steel ends it has the same all aluminium look of the 33 one Yeah, but that 33 may/may not be a 33 one. Identification would be down to how much the metal splines are peeping out the flare, or so the bulletin says. Old props would be 3 piece, late props would be one piece. Whether there was overlap in the use of them, rather than the supply chain, I'm not sure.
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Post by Nick on Aug 3, 2014 17:31:30 GMT
so it was a pre 73 shaft then. couldnt tell by the car as he ahd converted it to a grass tracker and it was running vauxhall redtop engine
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 3, 2014 17:33:46 GMT
Well my 66 which was Jan/Feb 1973 built, I don't think had been buggered about with in 25k miles. That prop was 3 piece. I broke up a later 1973 66 and that had a one piece and a number of other minor detail changes such as the lower valence pressing and the like. I think I have a 44 shaft kicking around, but it might have one mullered end. I do have the two halves of the 66 prop in a box somewhere, so I could probably stick it back together (with some silver duck tape ) I do know that 343 CVT props are different to 66 ones (I think) They are 20 spline. A bit like the clutch plates. Covers are the same between V66 and V340 CVTs, but the plates have 20 splines instead of 10.
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Post by Nick on Aug 3, 2014 18:26:37 GMT
props on mate fitted a treat, no issues with clearance, just struggling to get one of the bolts into the frame that holds the primary up into place then its belt on and road test time... how out of balance it will be however is anybodys guess
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 3, 2014 19:27:58 GMT
Well?
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Post by Nick on Aug 3, 2014 20:35:37 GMT
sorry, like my road tests to be thorough so figured 50 miles would do, no vibration thats noticable, definite loss of a jingle (no doubt the worn splines) so very happy indeed for the minute
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