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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 11, 2014 8:33:39 GMT
After the utter disaster that was my purchase of an auto 300tdi Land Rover Discovery, that was supposed to be imaculate, and in fact has a fair amount of rust and barely runs with a lot of coaxing into life. I've now gone and bought another one albeit a manual this time for 1/4 of the price of the first. We shall see if that was a sensible decision soon. Anyway some more about her she is green. Ok yes I do know more than that. Its an N reg 300tdi manual and it was advertised as spares or repair due to severe rust. So I thought ok the engine might be good to get mine working so went to have a look. It was then that I realised that the "terminal rust" was a rotten boot floor and frilly arches and nothing to serious at all. The engine pulls like a train, sounds sweet and doesn't smoke and the gearbox and transmission are good from the test drive. To be honest I think the seller did herself a disfavour by advertising it as spares or repair because its perfectly driveable and has a long MOT and a fair bit of tax. As well as 5 nearly new A/T tyres. In fact im now in two minds where to go this ones body is really not a lot worse than the Autos but I really do want the auto box so im now wandering what is the easier job. Engine from the manual into the auto or autobox into the manual car? Anyone here done either and able to shed light onto it. anyway this is the car and i'll take some proper photos when I go to pick it up. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331146192776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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Post by macplaxton on Mar 11, 2014 13:37:44 GMT
...the men in white coats will be round this afternoon for you!
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Post by 33grinder on Mar 11, 2014 13:57:39 GMT
They all go on the boot floor and rear arches. The arches is a must because it's bang on next to the seat belt anchorages, the boot floor do at your leisure, but do it. Panels available.
Just keep the manual and get mum to drive, much easier.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 11, 2014 17:31:22 GMT
Well its back and the 30 mile trip home has told me what to do. All in all for £540 its a bloody good car but it does have some issues.
1. Diff whine above 50mph not loud and possibly sort able with an oil change 2. Indicators don't self cancel. 3. Gear box is bit like stirring a pudding bowl as the lever doesn't self centre. Its serviceable and goes in and out of all 4 gears but it takes some getting used to and 4th can be a bit hard to find.
Apart from that she drove well. The suspension and steering on the auto feel taughter but the engine on this one is light years ahead of the autos. So I think the solution is this drive this one until august when the MOT expires and I have some time and then swap the engine into the auto with has better running gear and a better body. Im not wholly decided yet but that does seem the best solution.
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Mar 11, 2014 19:02:09 GMT
"I think I actually am clinically insane!" Indeed Paul...but then again so are we all. We drive DAFs! John
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 12, 2014 14:36:21 GMT
They all go on the boot floor and rear arches. The arches is a must because it's bang on next to the seat belt anchorages, the boot floor do at your leisure, but do it. Panels available. Just keep the manual and get mum to drive, much easier. As its so nice today and I had ten minutes I decided to have a look with my own eyes to see just how bad the rust is and and as such pulled the boot carpet and arch carpets. To be honest who ever told the previous lady owner that the car was suffering near terminal rust should be shot! As actually the car is really quite solid and I don't forsee any issues corrosion wise getting it through the next MOT with more than about an hours work. I will let the pictures speak for themselves but sufficet to say having realised just how good this spares car actually is im not going to break it in fact im going to break the very expensive auto car that is bodily in worse order and most definatly mechanically. The only other issues ive identified is the need for a new rocker cover gasket, some worn bushes, and a leak from the rear diff. and some close ups of the not so good bits. I don't for see an MOT fail there. or here for that matter Apart from the obvious badly done repairs on the tail edge that boot floor looks pretty solid to me and in fact far better than the one in the auto! As far as whether it would fail or not it depends how the tester interprets the manual on body mounts, personally I don't think its a fail as the manual says something along the lines of corrosion within 30cm of a body mount making the body insecure or liable to move. This body is not insecure. But I go and do those patches properly, and that is pretty much the whole extent of rust issues on the car. She has 4 of these AT tyres all with similar tread albiet one is on the spare. A wad of invoices for parts and work and several previous MOTs. And the issues in the interior are a hole in the drivers seat fabric. saggy headlining and a curling dash.
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Post by andrejuan on Mar 13, 2014 14:24:34 GMT
Also Paul, check the rearmost chassis where it bolts to the body (behind back bumper) the anchor points always rust away sooner or later.
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shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Mar 13, 2014 23:26:26 GMT
Body has to have at least half of the body mounts corroded and insecure, and the body in danger of falling to fail on that. As for the rear floor, the repairs you show are all done internally under the carpet. very difficult to asess from underneath on MOT as we cant actually see if an internal repair is carried to test standards. Best bet is to remove all rear seats for test, then the belts aren't testable, and the whole rear floor can be fecked and it isnt a problem. Also they rust bad around the little curly windows in the roof, testable and I fail loads of them. You want to see some of the shite welded repairs they come back with.
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Post by Sigmund Fraud on Mar 14, 2014 11:07:56 GMT
This thing actually looks pretty tidy, and the few minor issues shouldn't be difficult to sort out. Well bought, sir !
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 14, 2014 18:15:47 GMT
Body has to have at least half of the body mounts corroded and insecure, and the body in danger of falling to fail on that. As for the rear floor, the repairs you show are all done internally under the carpet. very difficult to asess from underneath on MOT as we cant actually see if an internal repair is carried to test standards. Best bet is to remove all rear seats for test, then the belts aren't testable, and the whole rear floor can be fecked and it isnt a problem. Also they rust bad around the little curly windows in the roof, testable and I fail loads of them. You want to see some of the shite welded repairs they come back with. Hadn't thought about those what the RFR that applies to the alpine windows then? Mine are solid around the alpine windows, and they don't leak, but there is some surface rust appearing near to one. Better treat that quick then.
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