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Post by Kenr on Oct 23, 2011 20:02:57 GMT
C'mon Andrew, pop on over!!
Ken
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andrewthe33
Bigger Belter
I don't know what you've done to me, sir, but you've done me the power of good!
Posts: 158
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Post by andrewthe33 on Mar 20, 2012 19:02:58 GMT
I've spent an afternoon repairing Pooh's front off-side front wheel hub, thanks to the help of Essex Dafs! Firstly, a lesson learnt; if you haven't the right tools, DON'T attempt to use the wrong ones! That was what caused me to be in this mess in the first place! My original hub puller was a fixed one, without flexible arms and when I used it to remove the hub one of the points didn't reach, and in an effort to force the hub from the axle I wedged the puller onto the hub nut, with disastrous results! A photo of the nut shows the points where the hub puller dug into the nut. In doing so the nut was forced over the threads of the hub spline, thus damaging the hub beyond repair, as well as making the nut very difficult to remove-28mm is an odd size, too! So, to today, and a more positive feeling about things... Firstly, I bought a new puller from Machinemart-excellent! Here it is in action: Safety first-axle stand in place to support the car: The hub came off perfectly and I bought another Autobook, to avoid making any more gaffs! However, as always with Dafs, things never go QUITE to plan... Undoing the top of the damper, no problem! [/url] Loosen the track rod end after removing the rusty split pin: This was one of the more head scratching moments; what size would the nuts & bolts holding the backplate to the axle be... 12mm? No! 13mm? Too big! Explain how a car built on the continent had been fitted with Imperial size nuts & bolts? Here is my 1/2 inch socket on the backplate nuts... The bolts were Allen keyed ones & were also an Imperial size. I didn't have any Imperial Allen keys, so used a Mole grip to hold it! One part of the removal I was dreading was disconnecting the brakes, which was explained in the book, but I didn't need to! If you're dextrous, you can remove the backplate with the brakes in place without disconnecting them or removing the shoes! The backplate can then be rested to one side, without straining the brake pipe. Re-fitting everything was easy, although the damper didn't want to go back into place without "encouragement". All's now done and we're off for a test drive tomorrow! I'll report back later with more news. I've new (NOS ) headlights to fit and new relays to fit to power them, so there's lots more to come, including the fitting of a new 12 volt radio, powered using a 6-12 volt converter. Happy Daffing all!
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Post by 33grinder on Mar 20, 2012 20:43:08 GMT
Glad we were able to help Andrew. Hope all goes well on the test drive and look forward to hearing more good news.
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Mar 20, 2012 22:40:42 GMT
Proper Tools for a Proper Job Well done Andrew. At least now no one will be saying "Aw, Bloody Hell ! What happened " Give yourself Pint. John
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 20, 2012 22:46:37 GMT
Andrew, I don't know how to break it to you but you've made the classic "novice Daffer" mistake. NEVER get one of these cars working and on road before you've completed the other stuff you want to do (like the lights and stereo) because driving them is so much fun that once it's on-road it won't sit still long enough for you to do anything else ;D Great to see Pooh back in business btw
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andrewthe33
Bigger Belter
I don't know what you've done to me, sir, but you've done me the power of good!
Posts: 158
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Post by andrewthe33 on Mar 27, 2012 16:22:32 GMT
A beautifully sunny day in Barnet today-just right for some Daffing! I'd bought a set of headlights (complete; lamps, rims, 6 volt bulbs, side light bulbs) some time ago but had yet to fit them, so decided that after my "success" (ahem!) at fixing the damper cum axle strut I'd fit the new lights. As the 6 volters amongst you know, you need every little bit of light, so the poorly-silvered lights on "Pooh" were not giving of their best, and the bezels looked shabby as well... Removing the near-side was simple, and here's the replacement: The off-side was somewhat recalcitrant, to say the least! The bottom screw would NOT shift, despite copious amounts of WD40 and muscle, but eventually it did give in..... A word of advice to anyone buying light fittings for a 33; off and near side back plates are NOT the same! The off-side has an extra hole, through which goes the bolt to hold the bonnet support bracket. I sorted this perfectly, though and after adjusting the brakes we (the current Mrs. H and myself) went for a spin. The brakes were put to good use when an inconsiderate Mercedes pulled out, thus forcing me to do an emergency stop.... Good test, though! The radio's next on the agenda and I'll be arranging to return the parts I've removed from "Pooh" to Essex Dafs, for anyone else to use at a later date. Hope someone can make use of them.
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Post by 33grinder on Mar 27, 2012 17:10:11 GMT
Nice to see Pooh receiving some improvements Andrew.
I do like the yellow lights. Shame I've only seen her in the daytime so have not seen them in the dark. Is the light as effective as a clear lens? Did they come as Amber or have you dyed them yourself?
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andrewthe33
Bigger Belter
I don't know what you've done to me, sir, but you've done me the power of good!
Posts: 158
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Post by andrewthe33 on Mar 27, 2012 20:06:38 GMT
The yellow headlights have become my "badge". Many years ago (1997ish) I was working in France when the French were told by the E.U. Gestapo to ditch their yellow headlights & there were thousands of them going cheap in every French auto accessory shop & I bought up loads of them! Whenever I repair a car I fit yellow headlights & I actually prefer them to white light. They're completely legal and the colour is called "selective yellow".
Incidentally, if you drive in France with yellow lights the French love you!!
I have the yellow covers that slip over H4 halogen bulbs as well as a huge supply of 45/40 watt non-halogen ones, both 6 & 12 volt. Any member who wants some, just PM me!
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andrewthe33
Bigger Belter
I don't know what you've done to me, sir, but you've done me the power of good!
Posts: 158
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Post by andrewthe33 on Apr 24, 2012 15:49:15 GMT
Dear All,
After my successful changing of Pooh's off-side front suspension strut I had the tracking re-set, since by moving everything about I'd put the tracking out. no problem, as I'd expected to do this. While the car was up on the ramp I had a good look around under the car. The belts are still in great condition and I STILL need to obtain a cover for them, although running without one doesn't seem to cause a problem (and allowed me to explain in graphic detail to the 2 young mechanics how the Daf belt system works!)
The other thought that struck me was the fluid levels etc. in the Variomatic primaries and secondaries. I've never changed them in any Daf I've ever owned, so perhaps I ought to... I've changed loads of gear box oil & it's simple; run the car to warm the oil, remove both plugs, filler FIRST (if you drain the oil & then find you can't undo to filler, you're in trouble...) let the oil drain, replace the drain plug & top up the oil through the filler hole to the level of the filler i.e. until it starts to pour out!
My questions are these:
1/ Is changing the Variomatic fluids the same as a normal gear box?
2/ I've clocked where the drain holes are in the power divider & the primaries & secondaries, but do I need access to the top of the primaries from under the seats through the floor?
3/The book does give the fluid quantities to add, but I wondered if filling to the filler hole (as per a normal gear box) would equate to these amounts.
4/ I take it I can use ordinary automatic transmission fluid for this, or is the Daf stuff something special?
5/ Are there service intervals for these changes or is it a "fit & forget" operation?
Thanks in advance to all the Daffers out there!
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Apr 24, 2012 16:57:33 GMT
My questions are these: 1/ Is changing the Variomatic fluids the same as a normal gear box? VERY STRAIGHT FORWARD...SAME AS2/ I've clocked where the drain holes are in the power divider & the primaries & secondaries, but do I need access to the top of the primaries from under the seats through the floor? CAN'T ON A 33...THERE IS NO ACCESS HOLE3/The book does give the fluid quantities to add, but I wondered if filling to the filler hole (as per a normal gear box) would equate to these amounts. YES, FILLING TO THE HOLE IS PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE4/ I take it I can use ordinary automatic transmission fluid for this, or is the Daf stuff something special? STANDARD ATF FLUID, THUS NOTHING SPECIAL5/ Are there service intervals for these changes or is it a "fit & forget" operation? PRETTY MUCH CHANGE IT ONCE AND FORGET IT. AS MUCH AS THE CARS ARE DRIVEN IT SHOULD BE A ONCE PER LIFETIME CHANGE FOR MOSTThanks in advance to all the Daffers out there! I hope this helps Andrew. ;D John
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