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Post by pauldaf44 on Apr 26, 2013 18:42:17 GMT
Getting well on the way to completion with this one now.
Wipers working albeit only a single speed, as I have temporarily wired in an on off rocker switch as the stock switch has burnt out, but I don't see that being a problem as its tempory until I get the proper item. I also discovered why the originals wipers had burnt out, someone has fitted wiper blades that are way too long and they catch and jam under the stainless strip at the top of the windscreen rubber seal.
She also had a good engine service today and is now running much much sweeter than before! I would think timing that is no longer 12 degrees out will be the reason for that. The water pump bearings are making a bit of noise but this isn't a problem given that I have another pump on the shelf. Provided its that and not grumbling main bearings anyway. Im pretty sure it is the water pump though as it sounds like its coming from the pump area.
Unfortunalty the fuel leak has returned despite all new fuel lines so I suspect the rear carb may have a sticking float valve. As soon as the engine revs up the top of the float chamber starts swimming in fuel so I suspect a carb rebuild may be on the cards.
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Post by Kenr on Apr 26, 2013 19:04:22 GMT
Paul, just give it a good clean out and fit an in line filter. I had awful trouble with exactly that on the Toledo. It took couple of goes but it was resolved without having to get a rebuild kit. Worth a try.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Apr 26, 2013 19:20:05 GMT
Paul, just give it a good clean out and fit an in line filter. I had awful trouble with exactly that on the Toledo. It took couple of goes but it was resolved without having to get a rebuild kit. Worth a try. Thats a good idea Ken I did notice a fair bit of detritous in each float chamber. I did rudimentaly check the float valve by doing this. Put finger over the feed to the front carb and blow through the feed pipe, whilst doing that raising the float by hand. With the float raised I couldn't blow through, so I would have thought that said the valve was ok. Ahh just had a thought I wonder if the float has a hole in it and instead of raising and shutting off the fuel supply when the float chamber is full I wonder if its filling up with fuel and thus not raising. Causing the fuel to be pumped out of the overflow.
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Post by Kenr on Apr 26, 2013 22:03:53 GMT
Floats are easy to change and not hugely expensive. Crud might be randomly causing problems by preventing the valve from seating properly. As I said, it took a few clean outs before my carb stopped chucking out petrol.
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Apr 27, 2013 9:08:09 GMT
Reminds me of the old A-H days...love the SUs, but hated to work on them (and so "climate temperamental"...at least here they were) John
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Post by spunkymonkey on Apr 27, 2013 13:40:51 GMT
Chuck the over-temperamental "handle with extreme care" precision engineered * crepe onto ebay and get a pair of proper real-world carbs (Strombergs) for it.
* with almost zero wear tolerance as a result
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Post by macplaxton on Apr 27, 2013 19:47:23 GMT
Strombergs are poo. Rip-off SUs with dodgy diaphragms.
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Post by spunkymonkey on Apr 27, 2013 21:02:49 GMT
Strombergs are poo. Rip-off SUs with dodgy diaphragms. But they work and they don't spew fuel from every orifice at the drop of a hat ;D
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 2, 2013 18:57:36 GMT
Success fuel leak now sorted and without having to resort to swapping carbs about. A thourough clean out and it no longer pisses fuel everywhere. The grumble from the engine bay that I had worries about has also been sorted by swapping the alternator for the one I originally used to convert Bruce, that was very good news but I suspect the reason for it in the first place was the fan belt which was too wide and slightly too short, as such it was way way over tensioned. I also had my first drive of it today which was nice but did show up a few niggles to sort though.
Clutch biting point is nearly on the floor so that will need to be looked into. Hopefully there is just still a bit of air in the hydraulics.
Im not too happy with the way its running, it starts on the button but seems to want to be over choked else it won't idle as a result the idle is rather lumpy. Ignition timing is set by the book but I may have a play to see where it seems happiest.
I freed off the rear brakes by freeing off the jammed in its guides handbrake cable but now have no handbrake and the pedal drops low and feels soft. I think we have air in the hydraulics and the shoes need adjustment.
exhaust blow from the manifold to downpipe joint probably something to do with the snapped stud causing one of the three nuts to be missing. Gungum may temporarily sort it but not all that likely.
Nothing terrible there at all really and if I didn't need to take Mum to hospital tomorrow afternoon the car would be seeing the MOT tester tomorrow, to be honest it would have been finished today had I not been called to help one of the neighbouring farmers. So looks like my deadline of Mondays show will be missed but not by much. Well on track for going to Anglesey on the 17th though.
I also need to do more scraping on the drive as the exhaust catches every so often I suppose that the penalty of having a car with only about than an inch of effective ground clearance.
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 21, 2013 16:36:03 GMT
Major progress happened today which sees the to do list greatly reduced. Low clutch pedal was caused by play in the linkage between pedal and master cylinder, not issues with the clutch itself There should be a pin that joins the pedal to the clutch master cylinder push rod but this was missing and had been replaced by a nut and bolt that was a fair bit too small. The result of this was 2 to 3 mm of play in the joint, this had the effect of dropping the clutch biting point by nearly an inch. A much better fitting nut and bolt was found and we now have a clutch pedal that feels good with a bite halfway up its travel Roof has been refitted to the frame and now has far better tension so may even be water tight now. Wiper switch has been removed and rebuilt even though its not supposed to be. A sealed switch is no match for Mr Hacksaw and is now working of a kind. The switch contacts have gone rather thin and the rubber in pump part is splitting, so it will have to be replaced very soon anyway. But now it does at least work. Rear brakes have been adjusted up and the handbrake is now working but a new cable is needed as this one is starting to stick in its guides and isn't reliably releasing. Bad adjustment though would not have been the main cause of the crap brake pedal and the cause of this all though not difficult or expensive to put right is rather annoying. The flare on the solid pipe were it joins into the master cylinder was really visibly crap and leaking fluid. All the solid pipes have been replaced and look like they have been done at the same time. For that reason I will now be replacing every solid pipe in case any other really crap flares are in the system. The last thing I want is one letting go once its on the road after all. To be honest the state of the two flares ive seen so far are scary and if the person who fitted them thought they were ok im not prepared to trust that they have been adequately clipped and that the pipe hasn't been overworked and thus made brittle during fitting.
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