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Post by gianmarco on Sept 8, 2013 15:25:26 GMT
the switch would be present in this bulletin for downhill? www.flickr.com/photos/19864651@N00/5333233451/I just fell in races to carry out checks on the vacuum tubes. a tube was partially slow then I replaced it while I warmed up the engine and tried to accelerate. I also lubricated the linkage of the carburetor. The problem that gave me seems almost solved: mildly pressing the pedal the engine stops but the recovery to 'start is not homogeneous. It seems that the face you want. Then once you overcome these voids the engine rises gradually. He has this moment of uncertainty when you accelerate then rises gradually. I did some tests with the engine brake button. The button, press it, it lights green but nothing happens. Even pushing it in gear, the daf not slow down. The contacts are connected to the vacuum |
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Post by Nick on Sept 8, 2013 16:33:14 GMT
sounds like the hotspot pipes are missing, on the car when new heat from the exhaust was piped to the inlet manifold to heat it up to stop this fade when first pressing the accelerator, mine is bad for it,
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Post by gianmarco on Sept 8, 2013 19:41:45 GMT
sounds like the hotspot pipes are missing, on the car when new heat from the exhaust was piped to the inlet manifold to heat it up to stop this fade when first pressing the accelerator, mine is bad for it, I noticed that the engine of my Daf cut and closed two recirculation pipes. If I understand it, is like an old-fashioned ... egr valve? I noticed that the engine of my Daf cut and closed two recirculation pipes. If I understand it, is like an old-fashioned ... egr valve? The green tube that is in this picture, my engine no longer exists, was cut. www.flickr.com/photos/19864651@N00/4340479707/ |
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Post by 33grinder on Sept 8, 2013 22:45:20 GMT
It sounds like the idle speed is a little low and the tickover is a little rough. I would look at the ignition components - spark plugs, leads, coil, contact breakers, solenoid. More importantly I would check the ignition timing is correct. Certainly this will account for the engine stalling under load. If she is reluctant to start when cold then that would also point to timing in my opinion.
Something really should be happening when you press the low ratio button (other than just lighting up green). Check all rubber pipes between the exhaust inlet manifold, the valve, between the valve and solid metal lines which pass under the car and then finally between the metal lines and the vario.
I would concentrate on making the engine happy first though. There are tests you can do to check out the vario side once you get to that. Like Paul says, if you disconnect the rubber hose that runs from the manifold to the valve then you have eliminated any effect that the vario can have on the running of the engine.
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Post by macplaxton on Sept 9, 2013 1:05:42 GMT
sounds like the hotspot pipes are missing, on the car when new heat from the exhaust was piped to the inlet manifold to heat it up to stop this fade when first pressing the accelerator, mine is bad for it,
I noticed that the engine of my Daf cut and closed two recirculation pipes.
If I understand it, is like an old-fashioned ... egr valve?
The green tube that is in this picture, my engine no longer exists, was cut. hotspotpipes1 by macplaxton, on Flickr There are two pipes. One green, and one orange (goes to front cross silencer). This is NOT an EGR. They only provide heat to the inlet manifold to stop the fuel/air mixture from condensing on the walls of the long manifold branches. With them cut / closed / missing, you will get the symptoms that you / Nick describe. |
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Post by gianmarco on Sept 9, 2013 6:01:18 GMT
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Post by 33grinder on Sept 9, 2013 7:23:30 GMT
The problem with these green pipes Gianmarco is that moisture collects in them and they rust. It is difficult to repair because the inlet manifold is stainless steel and the pipes are mild steel so they are difficult to weld. At the other end of green pipe is the exhaust heat exchanger. This takes heat from the exhaust and runs that hot air through those pipes around the inlet manifold then out through the orange pipe to the exhaust front silencer. All this does is to give heat to the carburettor to aid combustion. Without these pipes you will have a slight hesitancy in pulling away. Some owners claim that by adjusting the flap on the air cleaner box to the 'winter' setting it will help against this, however the car should not stall.
Most owners in the UK accept this and it is common to remove the rusty pipes and plug the holes. Most cars are using heat exchangers that have been welded many times. You could join DAF Club Nederland who I understand will recondition your heat exchanger for +/- €200 per side. This is why we don't do this in the UK because the price to replace the whole exhaust is more than the value of the car.
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Post by gianmarco on Sept 9, 2013 13:20:58 GMT
The problem with these green pipes Gianmarco is that moisture collects in them and they rust. It is difficult to repair because the inlet manifold is stainless steel and the pipes are mild steel so they are difficult to weld. At the other end of green pipe is the exhaust heat exchanger. This takes heat from the exhaust and runs that hot air through those pipes around the inlet manifold then out through the orange pipe to the exhaust front silencer. All this does is to give heat to the carburettor to aid combustion. Without these pipes you will have a slight hesitancy in pulling away. Some owners claim that by adjusting the flap on the air cleaner box to the 'winter' setting it will help against this, however the car should not stall. Most owners in the UK accept this and it is common to remove the rusty pipes and plug the holes. Most cars are using heat exchangers that have been welded many times. You could join DAF Club Nederland who I understand will recondition your heat exchanger for +/- €200 per side. This is why we don't do this in the UK because the price to replace the whole exhaust is more than the value of the car. Now everything is clear: without these tubes in hot countries, the engine should fit the same as in cold countries would have more difficulty. So in my case (in Italy there are in summer 35 ° C) can not leave them like that. Pressing the engine brake, with the engine off, the vacuum pump makes noise as a "tac" or I realize the operation only with the engine running? |
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Post by Nick on Sept 9, 2013 16:49:04 GMT
Le canalizzazioni calore al carburatore per arresto diventi liquido nel collettore. La macchina può essere utilizzata senza i tubi ma avrà sempre il punto piatto di accelerazione quando viene premuto il pedale. Ho fatto questo tramite un sito web, quindi mi dispiace se si legge in una strana maniera, spero tuttavia che ha contribuito.
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Post by 33grinder on Sept 9, 2013 17:19:39 GMT
Le canalizzazioni calore al carburatore per arresto diventi liquido nel collettore. La macchina può essere utilizzata senza i tubi ma avrà sempre il punto piatto di accelerazione quando viene premuto il pedale. Ho fatto questo tramite un sito web, quindi mi dispiace se si legge in una strana maniera, spero tuttavia che ha contribuito. Couldn't have said it better myself...  |
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