shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Jan 26, 2014 21:58:19 GMT
Cheers Mac, I can sort the pipes now thank you :-) As for the metal bit, I pulled the switch all the way towards the offside inner wing (loosened off the 8mm locking nut). I had the vacuum guage connected and got a mate to rev the Daf to 2650rpm, I then moved the switch to try and get the vacuum to drop to zero, but I can move it all the way in the other direction and not touch the linkage. Even with the throttle fully released it doesn't actually touch the micro switch. hence my thinking the flat spot on the lower part of the cam is a massive flat spot, even the long adjuster screw is all the way in to the locking nut. Engine OFF and if I press the switch manually the valve clunks. After my welding: The switch actually works, I also got the vacuum to read zero at 2650rpm and it does make a rev difference when driven, But and this is where I fully agree, I don't think my weld will be quite the same profile as an unworn cam :-) Thats the part I need Matt. Just let me know how much with post and I will sort the payment. Annoying thing is, I thought this switch was sorted 2 years ago when I had a sparky fit the new valve, but like me, he didn't have a book either. Its actually quite a good thing to have, although I only have the Haynes manual, it is helping me a little. Shaun.
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Post by mattsdafs on Jan 26, 2014 22:14:50 GMT
Hi Shaun...I left some carb bits with Pete earlier including a cam,hopefully Pete can get that in the post to you soon
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Post by 33grinder on Jan 26, 2014 22:40:32 GMT
Yes you did mate but sadly that part is not fitted to it.
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Post by macplaxton on Jan 26, 2014 23:19:37 GMT
As for the metal bit, I pulled the switch all the way towards the offside inner wing (loosened off the 8mm locking nut). I had the vacuum guage connected and got a mate to rev the Daf to 2650rpm, I then moved the switch to try and get the vacuum to drop to zero, but I can move it all the way in the other direction and not touch the linkage. Even with the throttle fully released it doesn't actually touch the micro switch. hence my thinking the flat spot on the lower part of the cam is a massive flat spot, even the long adjuster screw is all the way in to the locking nut. Engine OFF and if I press the switch manually the valve clunks. Here's what a good cam looks like. IMG_20140126_225549 by macplaxton, on Flickr Micro-switch contacts are open at idle and full throttle. At part throttle they are closed, thus energising the overdrive/upshift solenoid. Here's the text that accompanies the diagram page 3-15 0094 by macplaxton, on Flickr
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shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Jan 27, 2014 19:11:29 GMT
Thats what I need, a nice unworn cam. Looks like I may have welded in the wrong place I shall E-mail Ton and see if he has a spare cam. Thanks again.
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shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Jan 28, 2014 15:18:03 GMT
I get the outer is the small pipe now, and the flared end the inner. But if I connect the vacuum gauge on the outer small pipe, I get no reading. If I connect to the flared inner I get a heathy vacuum that drops to zero when the microswitch is activated.
??
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Post by macplaxton on Jan 28, 2014 15:37:58 GMT
Go back to the 3-15 diagram, it shows how the switch contacts should behave.
At idle, the microswitch is held in, but the contact are open. No current is going to solenoid A. Mushroom is sealed shut and no vacuum going to small pipe to the overdrive out chamber.
At mid-throttle microswitch is no longer depressed, the contacts are then closed. Current goes to solenoid A shifting it outwards. Mushroom valve is now allowing vacuum down the small pipe and pulling the diaphragm into the outer cover. Overdrive is achieved.
At VERY full throttle, that is past full throttle, equivalent to kickdown position on a conventional auto, it behaves as per idle and no vacuum is pulling out the diaphragm.
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Post by macplaxton on Jan 28, 2014 17:35:28 GMT
Perhaps it might be worth testing the 4-way vacuum valve and rear pipework in isolation to see that each part is functioning correctly.
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shaun
Little Belter
Posts: 84
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Post by shaun on Jan 28, 2014 20:18:37 GMT
Perhaps it might be worth testing the 4-way vacuum valve and rear pipework in isolation to see that each part is functioning correctly. On the case, (maybe not correctly though :-( ) I am gonna give my book and wiring diagram to the sparky and get him to check all wires are in the right place. The diagrams I have in the Haynes list 3 wires to the valve I have. I seem to have 4. 2 co-joined to the bottom of B and a single to the top of each A and B. Single non connected spade on the bottom of A. Maybe now would be a good time to take Howard up on his offer of visiting and copying how his is wired in
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Post by macplaxton on Jan 28, 2014 20:41:34 GMT
Old DAF valves have three wires going to that valve. W = white from the 15 terminal on the back of the low ratio hold switch. Gr = green from the microswitch. That would then be "Gr" to the +12V terminal on the overdrive/gear up side of the 4 way valve (A side) and "W" is on side B. The last one would be "Br" = brown for the earth. Note :Later valves do not have an internal connection between the earth tags, so need an external wire to link them.
Just check whether this is the case or not with a multimeter, checking to see if there is continuity between the two bottom earth tags or there isn't. If there isn't, make sure an external jumper wire is added so both solenoids have an earth. So, looking at as in this diagram. 4_way_vac_valve_wires by macplaxton, on Flickr Top left = Green Top right = White Bottom left + right = Brown (Earth) That's the wiring to it. Next test I would do is +12V straight to Top left and listen for clunk. Then +12V straight to Top right and listen for clunk. Ensure bottom two terminals have a good earth. After that I'd do the same but with a vacuum gauge connected to each downward/bottom facing stub in turn to see if the rubber mushrooms on the end of the solenoid valves are actually sealing effectively.
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