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Post by starider on Feb 21, 2020 22:31:58 GMT
Hi,yes the rubber seal does seem to be an unusual fitting,but it's not until you try to remove the tank you realise how good a fitting the rubber is. I've now got the refit to look forward to!!
Tony.
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Post by mattsdafs on Feb 22, 2020 0:41:33 GMT
Good luck with the refit Tony..
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andrewthe33
Bigger Belter
I don't know what you've done to me, sir, but you've done me the power of good!
Posts: 158
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Post by andrewthe33 on Feb 22, 2020 8:51:00 GMT
I removed mine by using a supported scissor jack and a wooden block to apply gentle upwards pressure on the underside of the tank and used a none-to-sharp screwdriver to ease the rubber seal away. I achieved the replacement using a new rubber seal, with soap well rubbed into it. I also took the opportunity of cleaning out the area around the tank, thus facilitating fitting. Good luck!
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Post by starider on Feb 22, 2020 10:04:27 GMT
Hi, great minds think alike,only difference was I used a trolley jack with a large square of ply to spread the load and used,like yourself,a screwdriver to ease the rubber.We will,when refitting,use some sort of lubricant to allow the cord to do it's job and "flick" the rubber over the tank rim.Washing up liquid isn't a good idea as it contains acidic properties.Having watched my mate fit several windows in my tractor cab,I'm hoping fitting the tank should go quite well.I may visit my tyre fitters and beg some of the lubricant they use when fitting tyres.
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Post by bobdisk on Feb 25, 2020 6:20:00 GMT
What about using silicone grease to lubricate? I have this procedure to look forward to !
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Post by starider on Feb 27, 2020 19:03:05 GMT
Hi, will let you know how it goes,hopefully in the next couple to three weeks!!
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Post by starider on Mar 12, 2020 13:32:48 GMT
Hi, work is progressing well,ready to put the tank back,had it back in place and removed it again,so goes in and out easily which I put down to the high gloss painted finish. Just waiting for my mate to use his screen fitting skills.Much of the welding on the main body is done i.e. rear cross member, gutter above the rear door,rear o/s quarter panel and various small patches.The final largish welding is to cut out the corrosion on the o/s front wing rear upper area,firstly to gain access to the inner "A" post strengthener for re manufacture and welding in before making a new outer section and welding that in place. Then it's out with the engine to check the clutch and repaint the engine bay before clearing a space for body preparatation/respray.The doors have to come off for bottom half re-fabrication. Sounds simple, still a long way to go,but there is light at the end of the tunnel!!.......starider
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Post by mattsdafs on Mar 13, 2020 18:21:00 GMT
Well done Tony..keep up the good work.
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Post by starider on Mar 23, 2020 0:33:56 GMT
Hi, Having removed the tank to allow the manufacture and welding in of a new rear cross member,on Friday I replaced the tank and to my surprise it only took around 20 mins.I fed some cord into the slot in the rubber[having first pushed the rubber strip onto the lip in the floor].Once the cord was in the slot all round,using WD 40 as a lubricant round the rubber,I pushed the tank through the rubber and then once seated began to pull one end of the cord which pulled the rubber lip over the rim of the tank, all went well until I came to the fist corner when due to extra pull round a sharp corner the cord pulled out of the opposite corner.No problem,just pulled out the rest of the cord then used a blunt screw driver to pop the rubber lip over the tank rim. Took a bit longer but not a real problem. Next job are the doors,quite a lot to do as both doors are rusted out at the bottom!............starider
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Post by starider on Mar 28, 2020 18:37:00 GMT
Phew! The next job,fitting a new front to rear petrol pipe,went even better.I had purchased several metres of 6 mm Cupro/nickel fuel pipe so slid the tank connector on one end and swaged the end of the pipe.It was when I started to bend the new pipe I soon realised trying o follow and bend the new to the old pipes bends and curves,that it was like wrestling an Octopus,suddenly a "light bulb moment", why not use small cable ties? The idea worked perfectly:- make the first bend [where the pipe goes into the tank] then cable tie the old pipe to the new then begin to put the other bends in the new pipe to match the old pipe and cable tie as you go,I put the ties after each bend/curve and worked from rear to front.Once finished bending I cut the new pipe to length and cut the cable ties.I then fed the new pipe from the rear and over the transmission until I could loosely screw in the tank connector.It was the a matter of working from the rear and clipping the pipe into it's various clips[make sure the pieces of rubber sleeve are fitted to prevent chafing where it bends up under the front bulkhead].Tighten the tank connector put "some" petrol in and check for leaks.mine was OK,put more fuel in and fired up. A quite enjoyable job.Took a bit longer to do than the tank.......starider
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