Post by pauldaf44 on Oct 20, 2013 19:31:51 GMT
DISCLAIMER
Brakes are a safety critical part of any vehicle, if you are unsure of your work DO NOT take the risk consult a qualified professional
Now that's out of the way down to business.
1. Make sure your working environment is clean, wear gloves and change them frequently throughout. Contamination of the brake lines can lead to leaks and brake failure so work carefully and cleanly.
(Take the old pipes off)
i) Try to keep the pipes as close to their original shape as you can and get them off in one piece if possible, this will make your life a lot easier when it comes to making the new pipe.
ii) To undo the unions you can just use an open ended spanner but this isn't the best strategy as the old unions tend to be seized and with an open ended spanner, it is very easy to round them off. You have two other options here. You can either; cut the pipe close to its union and use a socket to undo the offending union; or you can use one of these.
not as effective as a socket but a perfectly good alternative. You can easily make your own by cutting a slot into a ring spanner.
Now that the old lines are off its time to start making your new ones but first we need to take a moment to think about the material you wish to use. Most cars use 3/16" diameter steel pipe from the factory, You need to keep the pipe size the same as that originally fitted but you can change the material.
One option is copper, but beware, in a lot of countries this is illegal. Copper is malleable, and such it is easy to shape and to flare. As copper is a non ferrous metal it will not rust. However it does have a tendency to work harden and become brittle if worked to much, or mounted in a position where it is subject to vibration and may move. It is for this reason that many countries ban its use and for this reason I also would not recommend using copper for brake lines. If you do decide to use it make sure it is adequately secured against unwanted movement.
Another option is to replace like for like and use steel piping, but be aware you need a good quality flaring tool and you will find it very difficult to shape the pipe by hand. On the plus side it will be as strong as the originals.
I use Cupro-nickel piping for my brake lines, it is harder to shape than copper but easier than steel. It also wont suffer as badly from work hardening as pure copper. It is however quite expensive.
Once you have chosen your material you start to make your new brake line. You will need the following.
i) Flaring tool, (Two different types, vice mounted or non vice mounted you will need the former to make good flares in steel but the latter is fine for the other two.)
ii) Pipe cutter. ( A hacksaw can be used but you will need to take time getting the cut end perfectly square and de burred afterwards )
iii) Pipe bender ( To get your bends neat and looking just right a pipe bender is needed. This tool bends the pipe without collapsing it which is important. )
There are a few different types so take your pick as to which tool works best for you.
iv) Unions. (You could use the old ones but there not expensive so why bother?)
Now we can actually get down to how to make the pipes
1) Measure your old pipes length and cut your new pipe with a little excess. Hiding a bit of extra pipe length is a lot more desirable to having a line that's too short.
2) Slide on your unions making sure they are pointing in the right direction, that the threaded part closest to the end of the pipe.
3) Made sure you've put your unions onto the pipe first? Good nothing is more annoying than making perfect flares and finding the unions sitting on the workbench next to the pipe. Now you can make the flares. (im going to assume for this part you are using a tool like the one pictured above, read the instructions of your particular tool and familiarise yourself with its correct operation.)
i. Make sure the end of the pipe is spotlessly clean and burr free.
ii. Place the pipe into the relavent sized pipe holder and clamp it up
firmly.
You should have a small amount of pipe showing clear of the pipe
holding part of the tool. For my kit the thickness of the bottom part of
the die is perfect.
iii. Insert the relavent sized die into the end of the pipe.
iv. Use your tools particular method to push the die down flush with the
rest of the tool in order to form a single flare. On my tool you use a
yoke like attachment and screw down an anvil.
v. Now take out the first die and use the second part of the die/ anvil of
the yoke with no die attached and form a double flare.
You need to do this for both ends of every pipe you make.
The flare on the left is a single flare and on the right a double this is what your flare should look like. If it doesn't cut it off and do it again!
4) Now that you have made your flares you need to shape the pipe. You may find this easier to do on the vehicle or off depending on the particular pipe you are making and the vehicles design. Remember me saying to try and get the original pipes off intact and if possible keep their shape undistorted? This is why. Copy the exact shape of the old pipe, get it right and you wont have anywhere near as much fiddling to do in order to fit it to the car.
A quick tip
Use a length of single core 13amp electrical wire and bend it to the shape of the pipe. Its just stiff enough to retain its shape when bent, but can be easily formed into shape. This can then be used as a template for making your new pipes.
I will update this how to with my own photographs over the next few days when I finish changing Sophies brake lines.
Paul
Brakes are a safety critical part of any vehicle, if you are unsure of your work DO NOT take the risk consult a qualified professional
Now that's out of the way down to business.
1. Make sure your working environment is clean, wear gloves and change them frequently throughout. Contamination of the brake lines can lead to leaks and brake failure so work carefully and cleanly.
(Take the old pipes off)
i) Try to keep the pipes as close to their original shape as you can and get them off in one piece if possible, this will make your life a lot easier when it comes to making the new pipe.
ii) To undo the unions you can just use an open ended spanner but this isn't the best strategy as the old unions tend to be seized and with an open ended spanner, it is very easy to round them off. You have two other options here. You can either; cut the pipe close to its union and use a socket to undo the offending union; or you can use one of these.
not as effective as a socket but a perfectly good alternative. You can easily make your own by cutting a slot into a ring spanner.
Now that the old lines are off its time to start making your new ones but first we need to take a moment to think about the material you wish to use. Most cars use 3/16" diameter steel pipe from the factory, You need to keep the pipe size the same as that originally fitted but you can change the material.
One option is copper, but beware, in a lot of countries this is illegal. Copper is malleable, and such it is easy to shape and to flare. As copper is a non ferrous metal it will not rust. However it does have a tendency to work harden and become brittle if worked to much, or mounted in a position where it is subject to vibration and may move. It is for this reason that many countries ban its use and for this reason I also would not recommend using copper for brake lines. If you do decide to use it make sure it is adequately secured against unwanted movement.
Another option is to replace like for like and use steel piping, but be aware you need a good quality flaring tool and you will find it very difficult to shape the pipe by hand. On the plus side it will be as strong as the originals.
I use Cupro-nickel piping for my brake lines, it is harder to shape than copper but easier than steel. It also wont suffer as badly from work hardening as pure copper. It is however quite expensive.
Once you have chosen your material you start to make your new brake line. You will need the following.
i) Flaring tool, (Two different types, vice mounted or non vice mounted you will need the former to make good flares in steel but the latter is fine for the other two.)
ii) Pipe cutter. ( A hacksaw can be used but you will need to take time getting the cut end perfectly square and de burred afterwards )
iii) Pipe bender ( To get your bends neat and looking just right a pipe bender is needed. This tool bends the pipe without collapsing it which is important. )
There are a few different types so take your pick as to which tool works best for you.
iv) Unions. (You could use the old ones but there not expensive so why bother?)
Now we can actually get down to how to make the pipes
1) Measure your old pipes length and cut your new pipe with a little excess. Hiding a bit of extra pipe length is a lot more desirable to having a line that's too short.
2) Slide on your unions making sure they are pointing in the right direction, that the threaded part closest to the end of the pipe.
3) Made sure you've put your unions onto the pipe first? Good nothing is more annoying than making perfect flares and finding the unions sitting on the workbench next to the pipe. Now you can make the flares. (im going to assume for this part you are using a tool like the one pictured above, read the instructions of your particular tool and familiarise yourself with its correct operation.)
i. Make sure the end of the pipe is spotlessly clean and burr free.
ii. Place the pipe into the relavent sized pipe holder and clamp it up
firmly.
You should have a small amount of pipe showing clear of the pipe
holding part of the tool. For my kit the thickness of the bottom part of
the die is perfect.
iii. Insert the relavent sized die into the end of the pipe.
iv. Use your tools particular method to push the die down flush with the
rest of the tool in order to form a single flare. On my tool you use a
yoke like attachment and screw down an anvil.
v. Now take out the first die and use the second part of the die/ anvil of
the yoke with no die attached and form a double flare.
You need to do this for both ends of every pipe you make.
The flare on the left is a single flare and on the right a double this is what your flare should look like. If it doesn't cut it off and do it again!
4) Now that you have made your flares you need to shape the pipe. You may find this easier to do on the vehicle or off depending on the particular pipe you are making and the vehicles design. Remember me saying to try and get the original pipes off intact and if possible keep their shape undistorted? This is why. Copy the exact shape of the old pipe, get it right and you wont have anywhere near as much fiddling to do in order to fit it to the car.
A quick tip
Use a length of single core 13amp electrical wire and bend it to the shape of the pipe. Its just stiff enough to retain its shape when bent, but can be easily formed into shape. This can then be used as a template for making your new pipes.
I will update this how to with my own photographs over the next few days when I finish changing Sophies brake lines.
Paul