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Post by 33grinder on Aug 8, 2012 21:36:17 GMT
With regards to the brakes, we can most likely do pads but very much doubt we can do anything cylinder wise.
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Post by 33grinder on Aug 8, 2012 21:41:21 GMT
Ken, your links were fine, it's the fucking swear filter bastardising the word "V olvo" in your links that's the problem Sort it out lads. Volvos, Volvos, we love VOLVOS!!! Fair point Rich. For the greater good it is now gone. Feel free to Volvoate all you like. They are still Ovlovs so far as I am concerned.
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Post by macplaxton on Aug 8, 2012 21:49:19 GMT
Cheers Pete me ol' china ;D
(Poor Ken was tearing his hair out trying to get it to work. All nice and pretty now that post)
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Post by Kenr on Aug 11, 2012 12:11:07 GMT
Popped over to the overflow this morning to try and get the lowdown on the brakes. Front o/s wheel off to reveal this: and this: The front brake is completely and utterly solid,I nearly gave myself a hernia trying to shift it. This may be down to pad/disk bonding, knackered brake hose of siezed caliper or a combination of any/all of the above. I couldn't see a brand name on the caliper either but hopefully someone should recognised which type it is perhaps. The rear O/S wheel was much harder to remove due to mega-torqued wheel nuts but I got there in the end. The drum came off quite easily after that and this was the result: I couldn't see any branding but the serial code was pretty clear after a little clean up. The shoes were worn but reasonable and there was no evidence of leakage: The friction surface of the drum looked reasonable: However, all was not so happy after I saw this staring me in the face: Never pick at a scab as this will happen: I have no idea how much of this is repeated on the N/S. There were further patches of knackered underseal dotted around the rear wheel arch but I didn't poke around too much.I must admit to being a bit disappointed about the rust holes but the rest of the car looks ok. Cheers Ken
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Post by spunkymonkey on Aug 11, 2012 15:16:09 GMT
ight caliper is likely to be piston rusted in its bore. Probably not a huge problem because the rust tends to happen well outside the seal area. Remove the caliper with the flexi still attached, put something about half the disk thickness between the pads and press the pedal - one piston should pop.Clean piston and bore well, reassemble using brake fluid as lube, then reconnect, use mole grips to hold that piston in and push pedal again. Other piston should pop, rinse & repeat
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Post by Nick on Aug 11, 2012 16:25:12 GMT
is it jut me or in the cv boot pic is that belt sitting very high on the pulley ?
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Post by Kenr on Aug 11, 2012 17:36:29 GMT
Hmm, you could be right but I am not 100% sure.
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Post by Nick on Aug 11, 2012 19:09:37 GMT
ill try and remember to bring my cylinder honer with me
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Post by Kenr on Aug 11, 2012 20:35:18 GMT
Cheers Nick, that would be very cool if you could. I suppose that things will always get thrown up on a car of this age and circumstance. Even with those bits and pieces, the 66 is still a decent car.
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Aug 12, 2012 0:03:33 GMT
Thanks for taking a trip to the the overflow today Ken.
After checking the photos I don't see anything which surprised me. All normal for a car which has been sitting for a while. Rear brakes look fine and should function normally. I could not quite make out the remaining thickness of the front pads however but if Pete's suggestion is followed the calipers should free up nicely, at least for a short drive to Great Bromley where she can receive a proper inspection .
John
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