thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Oct 22, 2012 23:47:18 GMT
Piece of Cake M8....LOL
Just start ripping things apart !!!!ONLY KIDDING Read the book, ask questions if you have doubts...we are here to help you get through it. John
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Post by mattsdafs on Oct 23, 2012 6:11:14 GMT
Glad it made it to you Darren but concerned why the box was damaged...it was well taped up Yes ask questions on here and we will see you through it...good luck
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Post by GoldieDAF on Oct 26, 2012 10:42:48 GMT
She's only around 36 years old, what could go wrong Might try and have a little look on Sunday, and just figure out where everything is, where it goes, and how to get it out and replace it. One quick question : At the moment Goldie is sitting on the driveway ( just in front of the garage ). I could do with pushing her in the garage to make it easier, and drier, to work on. Do i need to have the gearstick in the forward or middle position when it comes to pushing her forwards ?
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Post by macplaxton on Oct 26, 2012 11:03:47 GMT
Do i need to have the gearstick in the forward or middle position when it comes to pushing her forwards ? Doesn't matter, could even be in reverse. No matter how fast you push. Only have to worry about the gear selector just before starting and when the engine is running.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Oct 26, 2012 11:27:24 GMT
One quick question : At the moment Goldie is sitting on the driveway ( just in front of the garage ). I could do with pushing her in the garage to make it easier, and drier, to work on. Do i need to have the gearstick in the forward or middle position when it comes to pushing her forwards ? Shouldn't make a difference if all is in good order as no matter how fast you push it the clutch should not engage unless of course a lining has come loose and its binding (youd know ) In practice though you may find it easier to push with it in Neutral as there is physically less metal turning when its rolling because the prop and cluth drum will be disconnected from the drive line.
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Post by GoldieDAF on Oct 26, 2012 14:54:10 GMT
Wasn't sure, so thought it best to ask. Cheers for the replies
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Post by Nick on Oct 26, 2012 18:23:58 GMT
do you have the tech data for doing a cylinder head or would you like me to scan it out the autodata book for you?
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Post by GoldieDAF on Oct 30, 2012 14:19:00 GMT
I think i've got the data in one of the books, but thanks for the offer. All this talk about engine out / tech data etc - think i might be a little out of my league, but we'll see how it goes
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Post by pauldaf44 on Oct 30, 2012 14:41:57 GMT
engine out on these is really not difficult. They are one of the simplest cars around, I think Joe's record is around 1/2 an hour to remove the engine on a 33. I have removed a 44 engine in 45mins before.
The tech data you need to worry about are clearances and torque settings. If you have a set of feeler gauges (for setting the valve clearances) and a torque wrench you should be fine.
The most difficult part of the job is disconecting and reconecting the front silencer the bolts are ermm rather inacesable. The engine itself just pulls out on a trolley jack
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Post by Nick on Oct 30, 2012 17:55:50 GMT
head off is a few bolts.. 1 holding the rocker cover on (no gasket as it has an o-ring so re-usable) 2 on the inlet manifold 2 on the exhaust pipe (or is it three) and finally 4 holding the head and the rocker gear on..
it couldnt be any simpler, everything is self explanatory as it comes apart, only thing to make sure is you make a note where the washers go on the studs that hold the rocker shaft on
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