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Daf 66
Apr 28, 2013 10:28:04 GMT
Post by Nick on Apr 28, 2013 10:28:04 GMT
tube of Barrs stop leak ?
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Daf 66
Apr 28, 2013 22:46:06 GMT
Post by Kenr on Apr 28, 2013 22:46:06 GMT
Boo!
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Daf 66
Apr 29, 2013 17:45:51 GMT
Post by Kenr on Apr 29, 2013 17:45:51 GMT
Well here goes:
Today saw the fitting of some shiny bonnet mounted mirrors! Always start on a high, eh! A bit of cutting compound was applied to see if the paint would respond, which it did reasonably well. All good progress right?
Emboldend with things so far, we decided to look at the lack of lights. Here is how it all went.
headlights, check. Sidelights, o/s check, n/s - bugger. Rear lights: n/s check, o/s bugger. Indicators: bugger, Horn: che.....bugger. Wiper: wiping. Number plate lights: bugger.
Thus ensued much cleaning of terminals, connectors and bulb holders. We swapped out the o/s rear light holder with no effect.
The under dash relays were swapped over as a non-standard one was in place. Now we had indicators and hazzard lights.... yay. Horn was now rather peppy.
The n/s side light, rear o/s lights (apart from indicator) and the number plate lights remain inoperative. All earths as far as we can see have been checked and cleaned. Bulbs are ok and a couple of fuses have been renewed with good outcomes.
Our final conclusions (for the rear lights at least) are: there must be a break in the wiring in the part of the loom that feeds or is connected to the rear o/s light unit and number plate lights. Luckliy this appears rather easy to get to but will involve the unwrapping on the old tape and splicing in new wiring as needed. New connectors will also be used.
The biggest issue is what the heck was causing the non-functioning of the n/s sidelight. As mentioned before, a new bulb and also a replacement bulb holder made no difference.
Any ideas? We briefly got the multimeter out but neither Matt, Darren or myself could do more than switch it on, look at it in a puzzled kind of way and quietly replace it back in it's box. I think it briefly enjoyed the sunlight but that was about it.
Even the ED chickens didn't know how to use it, although they did enjoy a cheese and coleslaw sandwich that was in need of disposal.
Getting an auto sparks in is not going to happen as there are just no funds for that kind of frippery.
There must be a simple way of sorting it out.
Cheers
Ken
Oh, must add drivers door seal to the list of needs as well.
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Daf 66
Apr 29, 2013 19:36:32 GMT
Post by Kenr on Apr 29, 2013 19:36:32 GMT
Doh! Forgot to make a note of the wire colours at the rear end. I kind of recall: green but nothing else. Can anyone help? Plus if someone could upload a 'bigger' version of the wiring diagram that would be a bonus as the one in Matt's book was about as small as could be and I had no chance of seeing anything useful on it whatsoever.
Ta
Ken
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Daf 66
Apr 29, 2013 20:30:14 GMT
Post by 33grinder on Apr 29, 2013 20:30:14 GMT
Ken, in the parts barn are original DAF workshop manuals with exploded fold out wiring diagrams...
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Daf 66
Apr 30, 2013 7:12:16 GMT
Post by Kenr on Apr 30, 2013 7:12:16 GMT
Doh! might be easier (re: MOT speedy) to just piggy back wires directly. Just not sure about the front n/s sidelight.
Poor Matt was somewhat stressed by wiring. He's not overly confident about the CV boots/joints and their happiness to part although that wasn't explored yesterday.
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Daf 66
Apr 30, 2013 8:12:07 GMT
Post by macplaxton on Apr 30, 2013 8:12:07 GMT
Just not sure about the front n/s sidelight. Check the colours used on the 46/55 diagrams that are out there. Sure they'd be the same. Like Pete says, just get the jumbo foldouts from the DAF bluebooks.
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Daf 66
Apr 30, 2013 17:26:13 GMT
Post by spunkymonkey on Apr 30, 2013 17:26:13 GMT
Doh! might be easier (re: MOT speedy) to just piggy back wires directly. Just not sure about the front n/s sidelight. Poor Matt was somewhat stressed by wiring. He's not overly confident about the CV boots/joints and their happiness to part although that wasn't explored yesterday. ] I really do need to do that guide to electric string fault finding don't I? As for the CV joints, piece of cake if the stupid allen bolts all undo without rounding off - I ended up having to weld a hex bit into a couple of Boris' ones to get them out But once the shaft's out, hold it in a vice and smack the centre of the joint with a big hammer (and a bit of wood for protection!)- it'll fly off in no time ;D
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Daf 66
Apr 30, 2013 19:37:33 GMT
Post by Nick on Apr 30, 2013 19:37:33 GMT
dirty fuses !!!!!!!!!!!!! had this with Gina, drove me round the bend.... they seemed fine, even tested as showing voltage with a multimeter.. but wouldnt pass current properly, also make sure if yours are the bulb holders that clip into the bumper that the positive hasnt been put onto the side that "contacts" on the bumper to assist an earth
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Daf 66
Apr 30, 2013 21:39:28 GMT
Post by spunkymonkey on Apr 30, 2013 21:39:28 GMT
dirty fuses !!!!!!!!!!!!! had this with Gina, drove me round the bend.... they seemed fine, even tested as showing voltage with a multimeter.. but wouldnt pass current properly Hence the need for the fault-finding guide In that case you'd need to measure the voltage "out" of the fuse with the circuit switched on and compare it to the measurement you get with it switched off (assuming the fuse is in the feed to the switch, which it should be). Any difference between the two readings indicates a bad connection at the fuse. Or measure the voltage across the fuse (measuring on the fusebox terminals) with current being drawn. Any voltage at all means a bad connection (in practice up to about 0.2v reading probably won't matter as long as all the other connections are good).
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