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Post by spunkymonkey on Sept 27, 2012 22:28:32 GMT
If it has diagnostics including oil pressure (surprising on a diesel that age) then it's unlikely to be a straight switch for the light. Sensor sends pressure signal to ECU, ECU turns light on. So a faulty sensor that's over-reading what pressure there is can easily give a "normal" oil light operation. If it comes to that, so can a faulty "normal" switch if it's opening at too low a pressure.
That's why the only reliable way to diagnose oil pressure is with a mechanical gauge - it either works, has obvious damage (bent pointer / broken glass etc), or pisses oil everywhere. It's also almost impossible for them to over-read so a "good" reading on one is guaranteed safe.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Sept 28, 2012 12:59:30 GMT
Ive had a chance to have a look at this one this morning. First plugged in the code reader and was rather suprised when it picked up no fault codes oh well nothing to clear later. Pulled the dipstick again and the oil level is still at the max mark so its not run out. so then I disconected the air pipe going from the turbo outlet to the intercooler and it was wet with oil however it wasn't wet where the intercooler feeds back into the inlet manifold. Conclusion we are losing oil out of the turbo into the air feed but not huge amounts so that is why its not running on. It soon would be though if those seals gave completly so off came the turbo. The bolts were being very stubborn and it didn't seem possible to remove the turbo to manifold nuts without first splitting the turbo. Once again a fair amount of oil around the compressor wheel but strangely considering the advert describing oil in the exhaust there was no trace around the turbine. I did pull of the upper timing cover and the belt has plenty of tension and isn't showing signs of having jumped, obviously I need to get the 3 million belts and pulleys of the front so that I can get the lower timing cover up and check that all the marks align. The belt looks fairly old so if this engine can be saved it will be changed for a new one. With the majority of the turbo and the heat shields out of the way I can see that the side of the engine is an oil slick oh dear! There is also notable oil splashing under the timing cover. A new turbo is on order as it will definatly need one. Im in two minds whether to fit it to this engine after checking all the timing is right in case most of the fault is in fact down to the turbo.
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Sept 28, 2012 15:35:12 GMT
Can you locate a quality rebuilt Turbo for the Mitsu ??
Or is this a case of the Turbo costing more than a replacement motor (as in the case of my Isuzu NPR box truck) ??
John
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Post by pauldaf44 on Sept 28, 2012 16:01:37 GMT
Can you locate a quality rebuilt Turbo for the Mitsu ?? Or is this a case of the Turbo costing more than a replacement motor (as in the case of my Isuzu NPR box truck) ?? John Reconditioned turbo is £200 but ive found a company around here that breaks them and they can supply a tested and garanteed turbo for £75 which really is not that bad. Link to recon one
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thebear54
DAF Nut
Those who say it can't be done, should not interupt the people doing it !
Posts: 1,426
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Post by thebear54 on Sept 28, 2012 18:59:41 GMT
GO FOR IT !!
John
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Post by pauldaf44 on Sept 29, 2012 13:42:34 GMT
Found a full engine including all ancilleries and turbos within 5 miles of home which im picking up on monday. Best bit though is he will buy the old engine off me once ive rebuilt it and provided he is happy with it (he will be cause its not leaving my workshop unless its right) he will pass customers on to me. Looks like there will be a silver lining to all of this afterall.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Sept 29, 2012 17:43:51 GMT
Been hard it this evening and have progressed a long way. So the car now stands as such.
Brake Servo disconnected Engine Electrics disconnected. Fuel lines disconnected Power steering pump disconnected Viscous fan removed. Intercooler removed Turbo removed Clutch slave drained and disconnected it appears to mount on engine block rather than the gearbox. Exhaust off. Most of the bell housing to engine block bolts undone bar the really awkward ones Top hose off Starter disconnected Throttle cable disconnected.
So for tomorrow
Bottom hose of and drain coolant. Remainder of bell housing bolts. Engine oil drain to make it lighter to lift. Starter off Release two engine mountings
I think that's everything but there will almost definitely be a wire or a pipe missed somewhere.
All ready for the new engine i'm collecting on Monday. The plan is to have the engine ready to lift out on Monday and the new engine lifted in the same day so I only have to hire a crane for one day.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Oct 3, 2012 18:27:04 GMT
engine now out! and failure has been investigated. The sump was full of swarth and some alarmingly large bits as well, the strainer looked a little blocked and big end bearing number 4 has at least 1mm play in it.
The engine fought me a little on coming out. In order to seperate engine from gearbox and thus make far less work for oneself the starter motor needs to be removed, this is easier said than done as there is insuficient space to use a socket or even a ring spanner. To compound things someone had been there first and rounded of the bolt heads. Unfortunatly there was no other way to seperate the engine and box other than breaking the cast alloy part of the starter motor that they thread into. Oh well a new starter is only a few quid.
Tomorrow I need to swap flywheels sumps and injection pumps and then remount the engine in the pickup. This should be a lot easier as hopefully I shouldn't have to spend 4 hours trying to undo 2 rounded of bolts.
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Post by pauldaf44 on Oct 4, 2012 18:23:01 GMT
Swapped sumps and was planning to put engine in today but that hasn't happened. The reason being when we took the sump off I noticed play in the big end bearings.
I took the sump off to change it for the L200 item and whilst doing it I thought id quickly check all the bearings. 3 big end bearings have at least 1/2 a mm of sideways play i.e. journal to journal. My imediate thought was that this engine was going to knock badly but on contacting the seller he is adamant that it is good and will be fine. Should I carry on with fitting it or try and make him take it back this was sold by a trader so I should be able to if its not fit for purpose
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Post by Nick on Oct 4, 2012 18:26:54 GMT
sideways on a big end is fine.. its up and down you need to worry about....
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